vodka420

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About vodka420

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  • Birthday 12/15/1984
  1. happening repeatedly?
  2. sometimes there are quite a few patches to download before you can play. At least we've got high speed internet these days should of tried downloading patches off a 38.8kbps connection back in 2001.
  3. yea you'll need a new processor, that is your weakest link. Tiffany my GF (vodka420) is playing on a C2D e something something (think its a E8500) that i've overclocked to 3.6ghz Thats paired with a 7900GT, a card way way crappier then your 5450 i'd suppose. but i'm not sure. She'll dip down into the teens in heavy battles, but even then its a smooth 19fps or so. Try turning down your visual player limit (under "connections") to low or medium, but i'd probably do low. And turn off "normal maps" That'll let you use your HUD without taking a 15fps hit from the special map. depending on your motherboard, it should be as easy as just buying a used (or new) Core2Duo processor then dropping it in the ZIF socket and booting the computer. But you need to explicetly check that your mainboard supports the processor you want. You can find your mainboard's model number via a program called "cpuz" http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html download and run that, on the first tab you'll see your mainboards vendor and its model number. (bios version would be handy to) post that name and model number, and we'll be able to find the supported processors list for your board. sometimes you'll have to flash your bios with a updated one to get the newest processors for your mainboard to work with it. especially if your mainboard is a early version. but even that isn't a big hassle and its easily done with a usb drive in as little as 20 seconds. This game runs on a 15$ 2004 Geforce 6200 64MB video card. if that tells you how graphically demanding this game actually is.
  4. ya since 1.31 this hasn't worked i used to use this as well to group voice chat with bud420/vodka420 at once with the ability to send sshots of crap you see over the text window to. worked damn well.
  5. Hah i don't know Axis speak. i guess its speaker or something along those lines. if its realtek you need your AC-97 codec/drivers but i dunno if your 64 or 32 bit. so i can't list any drivers. But google AC 97 drivers (operating system) 32 or 64 bit and you ought to find them. If you know your motherboard model number then i can find the exact driver you need. http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html (use that program to find out your mainboard model number)
  6. Well look up some local PC shops and see what they would charge for building it, just say "you don't want a operating system installed" and it ought to be cheap, building it is easy, but windows installations can take some time to do right.. and you can do that yourself. Just ask for a hardware build alone, you've already got all the news parts in box blah blah blah. shouldn't be too expensive, and make sure you tell them the "other" guys will do it for 5$ less then what they price you lol... ought to get it 10$ cheaper at least that way. and thats if you have trouble in doing it. building a computer now is a hell of a lot easier then it was 10 years ago. CPU heatsinks attach with ease, and s@#ts all keyed so you can't stick a part in a slot that doesn't work. and you can't stick ram sticks backwards. Hardest part is the I/O headers along the bottom of the mainboard that connect to the case. The power button and reset button don't have polarity, so those don't matter. the HDD and POWER led do have polarity though. usually the header will have a + sign on one of them. just connect the "bright" colored wire to the + side of the header and you'll be alright... most mobo's have little adapters or a guide on whats what. wires are usually marked + and - now to. you'll see what im talking about when you get to that part with the USB and I/o headers lol.. if you run into trouble just post back here with some pictures and we can talk you through it. Since you've got the laptop. theres a pretty good chance we can talk you through any errors. big tip: Touch a bare metal part of your chassis before working on components, it'll neutralize any static potential you've got while walking around carpet with cotton socks on, and it eliminates the need for those gay static wrist bands that can blow your arm off if you take a electric shock to your arm while wearing it... they also increase your chances almost 100% of getting a electrical shock while working on equipment thats powered since you've got a solid earth ground hahahaha. I prefer to be a neutral insulator rather then a conductor when working on electronics
  7. lol he apparently doesn't want to do that for some odd strange unknown reason.
  8. Yup says 140W compatible processors on that mainboard, and the 955 is a 125W processor. both socket AM3+ when you get it, and if you want to set the multiplier higher to get a higher clock speed. just make a thread here and we'll talk you through doing it. its really simple though. adjust the CPU multiplier from something like 15x to 17.5x adjust the FSB: DRAM ratio from 1:2 to 1:4 And thats it to make it run as if its a 970 series (3.5Ghz)
  9. It's been broken since 1.31 came out I have no idea why it doesn't work, it used to, and the shortcut workaround doesn't work either. Which sucks because Steam Voice chat works a HELL of a lot better then teamspeak with 1/32nd the complications of teamspeak as well.
  10. you'll be kicking a@# online in no time. Welcome home by the way.
  11. I killed 18 n@2is with a panhard not to long ago in intermission. i.m.o the mouse works brilliantly for tank turrets, you can adjust your Rate of movement though with gamepads and such in the control panel though. You've just got to be accurate with how much you want the turret to move, if you spaz out and push it to far, you'll spaz out and move it the other way, then spaz out again and move it back the other way to far. stay calm and make accurate movements, Accuracy in shooting is how you mow down half a brigade with a single unit.
  12. its a very good starter system. its really hard to find a exact system for what you need though. It'll run fine at what ever resolution you want, the only thing really lacking in that system is the core clock speed of the processor, but it's not going to run "terrible" or anything like that, just expect a slow down when a lot of people get on the screen at once. but it'll still be playable. And with turning some of the settings down (i do, just because i dont like stuff like radial clutter) i'm sure it'll be a very enjoyable experience. And down the road, if you want to throw 75~100$ at it for a premium motherboard with overclocking capabilities, Voltage regulators with heatsinks and the fancy stuff required for O.C'ing. that processor will be able to easily attain some tuberculous speeds lol. and the rest of the stuff you've already got is good stuff. the power supply is crap. so that'll need to be immediately replaced before you can consider a new graphics or processor down the road though. For 500$ its a good investment, and it simply blows gophers suggestion away. And you don't even know if it does have Overclocking in the bios. its a ibuypower system and they are pretty good at hooking it up fat with bios menus.. they tend to just use the standard bios. and not a crippled OEM version like HP and dell do. so the chances are it does have those features.. which would be a EXTREME plus since right out of the box we can get you near 200$ processor performance out of a 110$ processor without any modifications or doing anything crazy to the system. [edit] Other thing i noticed is while its a 1,000GB drive, its got 16MB cache. which is the bottom tier of hard drive performance. You really want 32MB or even 64MB cache for tip-top performance while loading and transferring files... So loading up games and s@#t will be slower then normal... but i mean again, for 50$ you can get a 500GB 64MB cache SATA 3 drive and load game and crap off that... or even a new SSD drive (basically a bunch of ram sticks in a hard drive case) which are exttreeemely fast at loading and transfering. but with all that said, the rest of the system is haulin a#3 and after loading you won't notice a difference. and if your current system is aging, then the loading performance will still be faster then what your used to. just don't go using some ones top fuel 4.0Ghz dragster computer and get spoiled by almost instant load times.
  13. it's good, not spectacular but it'll run ww2ol just fine. I've got a 955 series phenom II and its o.c'd to 3.6Ghz. but its the same graphics card i have. slightly crappier memory and a basic mobo. I'd expect it to lag down into the teens in fps in big battles since the processor has a 700mhz lower clock speed then my processor. but it'll do extremely well in medium fights, and amazo in the air, you might even just run a medium or low visual limit when the battles are big, and that'll keep the fps up. if you do end up buying it, post here and we can see if it has overclocking capabilities built into the bios or not. because you ought to run the stock frequencies of the 940,955 series with out a issue (3.0/3.2Ghz) with the stock cooling set up and all of that since its the same processor just with a higher default multiplier.. well and the higher the series the more quality control procedures it passed to so your x4 925 probably had a lot of f@#k ups in the die but it ought to do at least the next higher multiplier with 100% stability. lol to say it simply. for 500$ thats a hell of a deal.
  14. should see how much bass a 15" two 10"s subwoofers and a 6" woofer can do. Enough to vibrate soda/beer cans off the desk when panzers roll by your bush and make the mouse dance by itself. my neighbors always know when i'm playing ww2ol
  15. depends on the cpu and the mainboard. some intels do Triple Channel, others do dual channel. so it all depends on what you want. but as far as speed wise, if you've got dual/triple channel then the density of the sticks itself doesn't matter. The computer doesn't see sticks of ram themselves, treats it as one big page file. you can mix,swap, match and mis match different ram sticks as long as the timings are the same across all the sticks. you could do a 256MB/1024MB/512MB/2048MB in your four ram slots from four different brands and as long as they are all DDR3-1333 or what ever and have the same timings (like 8-8-8-9-2T) it'll perform just as fast as those "memory kits" they tend to way overcharge for. But latency does make a difference in performance. depends on the game your trying to run if it'll make a huge or a lil' difference. ww2ol its a pretty noticable difference. But not in FPS numbers, its more of the time it takes crap to load, or tanks/buildings/infantry to load up.. stuff like that.