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Posts posted by jon8798

  1. Hi Ashtorak,

    You shouldn't have to run for 30 minutes to get somewhere if you don't want to.

    If you are defending, you spawn in the town so the enemy comes to you.

    If you are attacking, the initial spawn point is the Forward Base - which can be 3km from the town you want to attack. So that would take a long time to walk there, but you don't need to.

    A mission leader can run or drive a truck to town to set up a Mobile Spawn, also called a FRU (Forward Resupply Unit) that can be as close as 400m from the enemy buildings. That means you can spawn nice and close and don't have to run 30 minutes.

    Of course, the enemy will try to destroy this FRU, so people on your side have to keep making more, or hiding them very well.

    You can swap to different missions to find ones with FRUs up in different places. Sometimes they will be close, sometimes further away. It can be better to put it further away so that the enemy has less chance of finding it. But even 1km away is better than 3km. And using the sprint button you can cover 1km in about 3 minutes.

    If there are no FRUs at all to spawn from on any of the missions, you can build one yourself if you are a the mission leader. Premium account players can start missions, if you are a free player you will need to join a mission and be made the leader, then you can build a FRU.

    Also, congratulations on unlocking the AT rifle. It is a good idea to read the guide by parasit or dotsie. There is a thread in this forum with pictures showing you where to shoot each tank. Remember that the AT rifle just fires a big bullet. It can only make holes in light tanks, and then only in certain places where the armour is weak. It can be very difficult to kill a tank with the AT rifle without a lot of practice.

    The AT rifle soldier also carries an explosive charge. This is a HEAT charge and can kill every tank in the game - but you have to put it in the right place and you only get 1. So it is a good idea to read the guide by parasit and use the charge on the bigger tanks.

    The light scout cars (like the 232, Panhard, Vickers and Daimler) have very weak armour and you can kill the crew with the AT rifle at longer ranges. I think my best ever was killing a 232 at 250 meters.

    I hope you keep enjoying yourself.

  2. Hey guys, the keymapper bug is a real pain - I feel your frustration.

    I used to suffer from it before then it just went away and I have no idea what I did to make it work.

    As far as I know, it doesn't affect everyone and seems to be kind of random.

    CRS (the guys who make the game) are aware of it and we all hope that a fix will come along soon. But I'm not sure if they've worked out exactly what causes it yet.

    It might also be worth mentioning that CRS is a pretty small outfit and they can't work on everything at once, this bug probably isn't top of the priority list.

    Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

  3. I thought it might help to explain some of the vagaries of the damage system for vehicles to new players.

    Some people can find the damage system hard to understand when they first start this game. It's not uncommon to find people demanding to know why that particular Sherman took 5 shots to kill but the other one died after 2.

    The first thing you need to know is that the damage system in WWIIOL is not the same as in World of Tanks or other, similar games.

    Basically, the game models each vehicle's individual components, armour thickness, angle etc and also models the path, speed and performance of each shell.

    So, when you fire a canon at a tank, you do not do a certain number of 'hit points' worth of damage to it. Instead, your shell is tracked as it hits the tank and its speed and angle are taken into account to decide if it has penetrated the armour at that point or not. If it gets it, it can then hit things inside the tank - like the crew, ammunition, the engine etc.

    This video is quite old but it gives the basic outline of how the system works:


    So, we can see that it matters where you hit your opponent. Little things like the angle of the armour make a huge difference. So the early war British Crusader tank, even though it has very thin armour, can survive the odd hit to the turret with big anti tank weapons because the turret has some pretty steeply angles plates on it.

    Of course, this is still a game and not every single last component will be modelled - but the important ones are.

    Breaking Tank Tracks

    Destroying tracks is slightly different. My understanding of the system is that there is a "joules threshold" that must be reached to damage the track. Each bullet or shell can impart a certain number of joules of energy when it hits something else. The level for tracks is set at a point that bullets can't do damage, small-ish anti tank rounds might do damage and bigger anti tank rounds will do damage. Once the tracks absorb the requisite number of joules, it breaks.

    A word on HEAT warheads

    Some weapons fire Armour Piercing rounds (or variations on them). Basically, they work by hitting an object fast and punching through. HEAT rounds are fired by some tanks (like the Panzer 4D and STuG 3B) and work differently. When the round hits an object, a charge goes off in the warhead that fires a shaped charge. It's kind of like a load of explosive packed around a cone of metal (usually copper I believe) that causes the cone to liquefy and shoot forwards as a bolt of molten metal. This punches very small, but very deep holes in things. The advantage of this is that it makes no difference how far away your target is or how much your shell has slowed down when it gets there - the force of the molten jet it the same.

    HEAT rounds are, however, defeated by angled armour. The trajectory of the shot also has an impact, so a falling shot hitting vertical armour would be deflected just as easily as a flat shot hitting angled armour.

    HEAT warheads are also fired by the anti-tank infantry using PIATs, Bazookas and Panzerschrecks.

    Killing Scout Cars

    You may ave been told that scout cars (the 232, Vickers and Panhard) can be killed by rifle fire. This is true, but only at point blank range. The game models all rifle bullets as tiny AP rounds. Something about full metal jackets or somesuch... anyway, it may not be 100% historically accurate, but it is useful to remember that you can kill that pesky scout car when no friendly tanks or anti-tank soldiers are around - but you have to be point blank and it take a few shots. You have to kill the crew.

    Scout cars can sometimes prove very tricky to kill with AP rounds. That's because a lot of the damage model is empty space (especially the 232). You can put AP rounds through them quite easily without hitting the crew or the (small) ammo store points. If you'r having trouble, blow the wheels off to give you a stationary target, then pepper the base of the turret to kill the gunner and commander.

    Anti Tank Rifles

    These are not real big tank killers. They are just big rifles that fire big bullets. Think of them as being like the grandfather of the Barret .50 cal. You're not going to kill Tiger tanks with them. However, they are quite good at killing scout cars out to a couple of hundred meters and can kill some lighter tanks at close range - but there are usually only a very few places where the armour is thin enough. Remember you're just firing a slightly bigger rifle bullet. So you usually are trying to kill the crew, not make the target go boom.

    How Did that tank kill me if it didn't hit me?

    The game uses a predictor system. This means your end of the game uses algorithms to guess what is happening around you until the server tells you specifically what is happening.

    Unfortunately the speed of a bullet is faster than the speed of another player sending information to the server and the server sending information back to you.

    This means that when you see a tracer, tank round, etc. flying through the world it's only your computer guessing where it's going. The only rounds you will see hit precisely are ones you fire yourself.

    This means there will be plenty of times where you see an opponent fire at you and it might appear as if he hit 50m in front of you but you die. Your computer is guessing where the round will land but once the other player's computer sends information about the outcome of the shot to the server the server will send you the correct damage information. So you may see it land in front of you, but a fraction of a second later your computer gets the correct damage information which might state that you have been hit and two crew members have been truck by shrapnel and your ammunition has been lit on fire.

    How do I fire an ATG/AAG?

    What you have to do, is when you spawn in, you're in position 1, the spotter/commander. Before you can shoot the ATG, you need to deploy it, to do that you need to press Z. Then, you can press 2 (to go to position number to, the gunner). Use numpad del to bring up the sight. Then you can shoot until your hearts content.

    I'm not an expert, so anyone who is feel free to add stuff or correct me.

  4. Serbet,

    I suspect that CRS will not want to allow free players to use the really good equipment (although you can multi-crew a top tier tank or plane with a premium subscriber) because they want to give an incentive to hand over money for the full access account.

    As for personal logos and decals, I know that this is something that has been talked about. But I think it might be pretty low on the list of things to do, which is a shame, but can't be helped.

    I think that you can have personal touches added if you have a lot of money though. For example, if you buy a builder's account ($2000) then you get a gold statue made and placed somewhere on the map.

  5. Hi Snowy,

    From what I can glean from posts by CRS staff, the new Free Play Accounts were initially not supposed to be able to capture buildings. However, it seems there was a split vote in the office and XOOM (community relations guy) posted that they would, in fact, be able to capture.

    My guess would be that if the decision has been made to allow capture, it could take a few days before the code is changed to reflect that. If there is no response here from one of the Rats in a couple of days, it might be worth sending a PM to Xoom directly.

    Also, just to make sure, you were in a flagged building in a town with an Attack Order on it? If you were in the main Army Base, the town also has to be contested (at least one other minor building captured by your side for 10 mins) in order to capture the AB.

  6. Press the ` key (to the left of the 1 key on the top row on most keyboards).

    This opens a little box in the top left that shows rudder slip, and other control surface information.

    This is useful as it gives an idea of how much and where you need to compensate. It also tells you if flaps are up/down.

    The torque of the engine gives the plane a tendency to spin in one direction which needs to be corrected with rudder and ailerons. The propeller also creates a corkscrew effect in the air around the body of the aircraft. This also causes it to spin and must be compensated for.

    As you gain speed, the torque, corkscrew effect and drag from other control surfaces will change. So the control inputs from you will vary as you gain and lose speed and manoeuvre. You can trim each of the surfaces to make this more manageable. Check keymapper, but I think the default keys are i,j,k,l,< and >.

    People commonly crash on take off because the spinning effect is strongest at low speeds. Crashing after take off can be due to over steering at what is still a low speed. Remember to lift off, raise the landing gear (huge amounts of drag), raise flaps (if used to take off) and keep a gentle, straight climb at full power for a few minutes until you can level off at a good altitude and with lots of speed. Then you can start practicing some manoeuvres.

  7. Premium plus is the account offered to trial members when their two week trial expires. It is the "free-to-play" account that lets you use rifle and SMG but not capture buildings or get past rank 1. It says it is a one month account, but you are allowed to reactivate it every month when it 'expires' with a couple of clicks on the website.

    As far as I am aware, an account that had a paid subscription can never become a premium plus account. I don't know if this has something to do with being unable to revert rank or the way the CS&R part of the game works, but for whatever reason, if you want the free to play element, you can only get it with a trial account. Which is no drama really, seeing as it takes about 5 mins to set one up.

  8. This bug was reported last year. I got a CTD most times I changed brigade, it's now improved to the point where I get a 1 to 2 1/2 minute wait about half the time I change brigades and no CTDs anymore, so they have definitely improved it. I can't find the original bug thread, but Gophur is definitely aware of it.

  9. Nice' date=' I'll have to join the server next time I play. Out of curiosity though, has VOIP ever been discussed as a future possibility?[/quote']

    Yeah, it was last raised a couple of years ago, the devs gave some reasons they weren't going to do it. Something about it slowing the game and being no better than TS so not worth the work maybe? I dunno, I really can't remember.

  10. Wrong, wrong, wrong.

    The reason people play this game STILL is because the map is huge and there is ALWAYS something going on SOMEWHERE.

    Don't penalize the player base because YOU can't "find" and "action".

    Be careful vasduten, don't fall into the trap of superimposing your motivations on the playerbase as a whole. Some people clearly don't play this game just because the map is huge - ap0cfury appears to be one of those. And he's no johnny-come-lately either, he seems to have been here a long time.

    I'm open minded enough to see that different people enjoy different aspects of the game and are excited by different areas of its potential. That's why I support the BB concept, which essentially tries to address some of the concerns raised in the OP. Recognise different players can appreciate different things and let the game offer enjoyment to as many of them as possible.

  11. Hey all,

    For those who are new to the game, the learning curve can be pretty steep. I've put together some videos that run through all the basic concepts allowing a new player to learn how the campaign map works, how to read it and how to find and join a battle. The first attempts went through the Barracks for constructive criticism and what we have here is 5 reasonably polished videos.

    Part 1 : (intro, tiers, the map, squads)

    Part 2 : (winning, supply, attack/defence orders)

    Part 3 : (Components of a town, how to attack and defend)

    Part 4 : (How to find and join a mission then enter the game world)

    Part 5 :  (communications, squads tab, settings, brigade roster)

    Please watch in HD in order for the text to be readable.

    Hope someone learns something.

  12. Yep, Hick's right, sorry dude. Check the System Information or Device Manager screen to see if you have another graphics card fitted apart from the Intel integrated chipset.

    If all you have is the Intel chipset, the game won't work for you I'm afraid. You need a dedicated 3-d accelerated card.

    If it says you have a NVIDIA or ATI card, you just have to tell the game to use it instead of the Intel chipset and it will work. Hick's links will show you how.

    Finally, if you really want to, you can see about upgrading your laptop and fitting a discreet graphics card. It can't be done on all laptops, and you have a very limited choice of cards, but it might be an option. It would let you play this game and a few others out there. See this article for an introduction:

  13. Amen, brother,

    I had a long running issue with my PC freezing up. I went through months of troubleshooting on various websites and with the dealer before someone told me to look at the PSU. Turns out eh manufacturer put in a cheap 250W rated PSU. That's criminal considering that the graphics card that came preinstalled recommends a minimum 300W powered system.

    New, brand name PSU fitted towards the end of last year and no problems yet.

    Never, ever buy anything from Packard Bell...