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Building a PC pt2::: Final Order

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This is what I will be ordering tomorrow:

Case:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811103010

Power:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139001

CPU:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115028

RAM:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820609026

Video:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130071

Motherboard:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131074

More Cooling:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185027

I have:

SoundCard/CD/DVD/HD/Moniter

Yay or Nay ?

If Nay tell me with a link on whats wrong. I think I took everyones advice and got the right rig.

Is this HighEnd ? My limit is $2,000

I'm making a new post to make it clean looking...

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If you were looking to save a little money try going with a differant motherboard that doesn't come with that sound card. you are paying for that as well as a few other options you most likley will never use. try looking at the rest of the mobo's instead of just the most exspencive.

I could offer a suggestion but I refuse to look at intel Mobo's

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The case just looks tacky to me but I've always been functional over looks. For the same price you could get a Lian Li that would be solid aluminium and a much better build quality that would keep everything much cooler and quieter.

PSU is good.

CPU is a waste of money if you're overclocking. Go for a E6320, it is a third the price and will reach the same speeds.

RAM is good.

Video is good.

Motherboard is overpriced. Unless you really want to go with SLi in the future then I'd go for a P35 chipset board like the Asus P5K or Abit IP35. $300 for a mobo is a rip off. If you want to go with a 680i then get the eVGA version.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188019

half the price, all the same features.

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You're going to put all that nice stuff in that ugly cheap case?.. hehe

2 things I'd change.

1. Get an aftermarket cpu cooler. The tuniq tower which is pretty much the #1 air cooler on the market is on sale for $45. That processor will run warm. Make sure to remember the thermal grease.

Doh!.. just checked and the price of the tuniq went up $20 overnight.. no longer on sale. It's $65 now.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835154001

This is a good second alternative.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185027

I run one of these and it cools wonderfully, but I won't lie it's loud.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118019

2. There's a lot of cheaper MB's that are newer design and overclock better than the striker. There's nothing wrong with buying a top dog MB though if you can swing it in the budget.

I linked you this one before

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131153

It's over $100 cheaper and even though it says it's an i650 if you research you'll find out that this i650 is built with an i680 northbridge. It also has all solid state capacitors unlike the older i680's. This is a unique MB in Asus's line up. It's the only i650 on the market that runs in true 16x on both video card slots in SLI. It's built with the more stable southbridge from the nvidia 570 series.

The striker is old news. It's been out almost a year. I'd get this one. It's cheaper too. It's not sli compatable. That's the only drawback. It's crossfire. I'll never run 2 video cards anyway. This is the ddr2 version.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131182

The only way that could be higher end is if you ran a quad core with 2 video cards and to be honest I don't think a quad sli would be any better in WW2 and it would be more than double the price.

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I could offer a suggestion but I refuse to look at intel Mobo's

Might I ask why? The P35 chipset is the best overclocker out there at the moment and more stable then the rest as well.

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Eeep! Layzboy I would never recommend that pile of dung to anybody ever. It's the worst mix of chipsets ever. It's unstable and the amount of problems people have had with it is unreal. While it was popular there were several posts a day over at the OCUK forums complaining about it. Please please don't buy it or recommend it to anyone.

Maybe you got confused and were looking for the Asus P5N-E Sli? That's a pretty decent board that I have myself and uses the 680i NB with a different SB to the 680is.

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I never built with one but I got to looking around at the nvidia chipsets and it seems that this one is well reviewed. AnandTech liked it. It's the only i650 that runs 16x sli in both slots.

http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=2958&p=1

ASUS introduced the P5N32-E SLI board shortly after the Striker Extreme as a cost reduced version of that board in hopes of attracting additional customers. While this was a good decision, that board did not compete too well against the reference 680i boards in the areas of performance, features and cost. With necessity being the mother of all inventions, ASUS quickly went to work on a board design that would offer excellent quality and performance at a price point that was at least half that of the Striker Extreme.

They could not get there at the time with the 680i SLI chipset and the recently released 680i LT SLI cost reduced chipset was not available so ASUS engineered their own version that would meet a market demand for a sub-$200 motherboard that offered the features and performance of the 680i chipset. They took the recently introduced 650i SLI SPP (C55) and paired it with the 570 SLI MCP (MCP55) utilized in the AMD 570/590 SLI product lines. ASUS called this innovative melding of an Intel SPP and AMD MCP based chipsets their Dual x16 Chipset with HybridUp Technology. Whatever you want to call it, we know it just flat out works and does so for around $185 as you will see in our test results shortly.....

After trying numerous voltages and memory timings we discovered our 9x430 FSB setting was the limit for both our board and CPU. This resulted in a final clock speed of 3869MHz at 1.4750V which is the limit for our Tuniq 120 air cooler

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The cooler replaces the stock intel cooler. Yes it goes on the cpu.

I really don't like Apevia's cases. They all seem cheap and too flashy. That one is expensive and comes with a PSU you don't need. Lian Li really does make the highest quality cases. They aren't flashy . They are a little overprices IMO. I love the gigabyte case lineup. They are classy and cool looking at the same time. Plus they're not that expensive.

Just make sure you get a full tower.

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The cooler replaces the stock intel cooler. Yes it goes on the cpu.

I really don't like Apevia's cases. They all seem cheap and too flashy. That one is expensive and comes with a PSU you don't need. Lian Li really does make the highest quality cases. They aren't flashy . They are a little overprices IMO. I love the gigabyte case lineup. They are classy and cool looking at the same time. Plus they're not that expensive.

Just make sure you get a full tower.

Full tower ?

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As opposed to a mid tower.

Your video card is gigantic. If you get a mid tower case and the hd bays aren't situated nice you may be blocking a few hd bays. Along with the length of the card is a plug that goes in the end of it.

I like a full tower for a performance machine. It's a little larger than standard but it gives you lots of room in the case to run your wires and house large cpu coolers and video cards.

You can search newegg by full tower if you look to the left in the case search.

These are $110

xclio.jpg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811103010

I get lol's usually.

THis is my personal favorite.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811233002

I know the reviewer on the top says the screwless card mount didn't work with his 8800gts but all you need to do is put in a screw.

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As opposed to a mid tower.

Your video card is gigantic. If you get a mid tower case and the hd bays aren't situated nice you may be blocking a few hd bays. Along with the length of the card is a plug that goes in the end of it.

I like a full tower for a performance machine. It's a little larger than standard but it gives you lots of room in the case to run your wires and house large cpu coolers and video cards.

You can search newegg by full tower if you look to the left in the case search.

I like these two cases

First Choice:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16811144091

2nd Choice:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16811144151

3rd Choice:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144004

I know the First one comes with power but I can always sell it or use it for spare parts.

If you got a better case please linky =) Beauty is always skin deep but dont lie a sexy case still looks cool +) lol

But the tower in the pic looks cool =) Would you have me get that one instead ?

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The gigabytes interior is really similar. I've built with that one. They put a big plastic toolbox in the way of the intake fan. Take out the white tool box for increased air flow and more hard drive space.

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You may want to get an extra 120mm fan for the back of the case. It doesn't come with one and both of those huge fans blow in. That's how you'd want them to be set up. Blasting fresh air on the chipset,cpu,video card area.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998121

or one without lights

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200005

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Take a very fine paint brush and coat the entire top of the cpu with a thin but even coating a few mm's short of the edge of the top so it doesn't flow over the side. Then place the cpu in the slot & Then apply the heat sink clean. That's how I do it.

Whatever thermal paste you buy will come with directions most likely. Artic silver5 is the standard. I tried arctic silver ceramic and it performed nice but I heard it can be hard to remove. I've never changed out a cpu in any of my builds so the heat sinks have never came off.

Don't get any of the stock stuff on it.. hehe

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Of course it will work. It used to be that arctic silver voided your warenty because of the medal compound. That's one reason they released a ceramic alternative that doesn't void the warrenty and performed slightly better last I checked. (We're talking like 1 to 2 degrees)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100012

I've used the same tube of this stuff forever.

On some of the larger cpu coolers they come with a backplate/brace for the MB that mounts behind it to help support the cooler and releve stress on the MB. This must be done first or you'll have to remove your MB when you go to mount the cooler. I Usually mount the cpu and the cooler on top of the anti static bag the MB comes in on a desk before I put it the case. Put your stand out studs for the MB mounting screws in the appropriate holes for your mb before you put it in the case or it will short out on the case. The MB sits about 1/4-1/2 of an inch off the back of the case.

It's worth it. The stock mounting system for intel 775 slot cpu coolers is crap. The nicer coolers come with various mounts. Anything is better than the plug in/twist clips. I do have a few working fine though.

I edited in a few more first time build tips.

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Of course it will work. It used to be that arctic silver voided your warenty because of the medal compound. That's one reason they released a ceramic alternative that doesn't void the warrenty and performed slightly better last I checked. (We're talking like 1 to 2 degrees)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100012

I've used the same tube of this stuff forever.

On some of the larger cpu coolers they come with a backplate/brace for the MB that mounts behind it to help support the cooler and releve stress on the MB. This must be done first or you'll have to remove your MB when you go to mount the cooler. I Usually mount the cpu and the cooler on top of the anti static bag the MB comes in on a desk before I put it the case.

Which one should I get, the one I linked or that one ^ the one you linked

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Get the ceramic paste. It performs slightly better and no voiding the warrenty by using a medal based cooling paste. BTW someone correct me if they've changed that I'm not 100% sure on the warrenty but that used to be true.

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Get the ceramic paste. It performs slightly better and no voiding the warrenty by using a medal based cooling paste. BTW someone correct me if they've changed that I'm not 100% sure on the warrenty but that used to be true.

ahh yes, your right..Thought i switched it

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