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Sepa

Building a PC pt2::: Final Order

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So you get your money back for the CPU you send back to them as DOA? That sounds decent of them.
Yea I get my money back for the DOA a $300 DOA

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How long would it take for a Dual Core 3.0 GHZ CPU to overheat and burn up ?

Without a heatsink or fan on it a couple seconds approx 15 seconds ive seen in the past. But that was not a duel core

With heat sink but no fan a short time longer

You shouldnt have a cpu without a heatsink and fan running for anything more than 10 seconds. And when i say 10 seconds i mean lets turn it on opps i forgot the heat sink time to turn it of asap.

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Without a heatsink or fan on it a couple seconds approx 15 seconds ive seen in the past. But that was not a duel core

With heat sink but no fan a short time longer

You shouldnt have a cpu without a heatsink and fan running for anything more than 10 seconds. And when i say 10 seconds i mean lets turn it on opps i forgot the heat sink time to turn it of asap.

Bestbuy looked at it and said i didnt put enough heat past on it, they said it overheated. But I think my CPU was DOA....Just checking

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Did it stop doing anything at all? Are you sure you got the heat sink on snuggly and correctly?

I don't think you can make it into the bios for even 10 seconds if you don't have any cpu.

I'm inclined to think that the geek squad at best buy doesn't know what they're talking about but maybe they're right.

My guess is that the MB won't supply enough voltage for your ram at default settings. It's enough to turn on but quickly becomes unstable and shuts down. This won't give you enough time to change it.

If you could try your board with some ddr533 or 667 of lower voltage then you could eliminate that as a problem. Your ram needs at least 2-2.1 volts. Default is 1.8

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Did it stop doing anything at all? Are you sure you got the heat sink on snuggly and correctly?

I don't think you can make it into the bios for even 10 seconds if you don't have any cpu.

I'm inclined to think that the geek squad at best buy doesn't know what they're talking about but maybe they're right.

My guess is that the MB won't supply enough voltage for your ram at default settings. It's enough to turn on but quickly becomes unstable and shuts down. This won't give you enough time to change it.

If you could try your board with some ddr533 or 667 of lower voltage then you could eliminate that as a problem. Your ram needs at least 2-2.1 volts. Default is 1.8

geek squad did not charge anything +)

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Bestbuy looked at it and said i didnt put enough heat past on it' date=' they said it overheated. But I think my CPU was DOA....Just checking[/quote']

How did you apply the heat paste?

Was it 1 layer of paste that cover all the contact area ( between CPU and heatsink ) but as thin as possible ?

I believe above is the best way to put the paste on CPU and make sure your heatsink make contact with CPU (the paste) and attached firmly.

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Most people who don't know anything about computers (ie people who work in those shops) would tell you to just lather up the CPU with several mm thick heatpaste and bung the heatsink on. That's not what you need. You need the thinnest layer possible that will make full contact with the heatsink.

A C2D will not burn out. It will shut down before it can be damaged. With the heatsink resting on it even if it's only using a small amount of paste then it would take atleast a minute to overheat. Without anything on it then roughly 10-15 seconds. As long as there's a bit of paste on though I don't think it would overheat atleast not until you got around to stress testing it.

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If my CPU did not burn out or was DOA, then is it what boy's talking abot ? A power problem ?

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when the new cpu comes, do I place a thin layer of heat past covering the entire face of the CPU ? With a brush ?

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That's what I do. A small fine paint brush. Like a nail polish brush. Paint on an even thin layer. And don't do it all the way the edges. Stay a little short of the edge (a mm or 2) so when the heat sink pushes down on it you don't have it overflow into the cpu socket. I got the brush idea from the zalman heat paste. It comes with one. I had problems in the past spreading the arctic silver ceramique. It's very sticky. Don't get any bristles from the brush stuck in it.

I don't put any on the heat sink itself. Put the cpu in the socket all painted up and then place the heat sink on it clean.

The only way the cpu could burn up is if it didn't have a heat sink. That's the only time I've seen them burn up. When the heat sink actually falls off or was not making contact at all. A core2duo at stock speed with a heat sink mounted will not burn up.

What process did they use to determine it was the cpu? Did they try a different cpu in your board or did they try that "bad" cpu in another board? I'm guessing neither. That's why I doubt the diagnosis.

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All I can do is give my opinion. I haven't seen any of this first hand so I'm guessing.

Like I said before the default voltage for ddr2 is 1.8v

Your ram sticks require 2-2.1volts. The MB is probably trying to start them up for the first time at 1.8 and they don't like it. They fire up but the ram becomes unstable because of the low voltage and shuts down.

Some ram chips will boot and run at 1.8, mine did. Just enough for me to get into the bios and raise the voltage to 2.2. Some won't. There's several articles online and personal stories in forums about this exact problem with the striker MB.

If you can "borrow" some cheaper ddr2533/667 that runs on lower voltage. You can try it in the mB and they will permit you to get all the way into the bios and raise the voltage to 2.1 on the ram. Then you shut down and install your good sticks. Then it should boot.

This is only an idea and only a guess at the problem. I can't see it myself. I'm going by what I've read here.

I hope they're right.. really I do. I just doubt it.

So they said the cpu was burnt up? Did it ever stop working at all and start to do absolutely nothing? Like not even go into the bios for 10 sec? Just sit there when you tried to power it up? That's what I'd expect from a dead cpu. No ram post beep, no nothing but an attempt at firing up. Nothing actually on the screen. Has the cpu always done the same thing up till right now? If you tried to fire it right now is it going to post and allow you into the bios for 10 sec and then shut down? You'd think burning it up would change the symptoms of the problem once the cpu was burnt out.

If you put enough paste on the cpu the heat sink it should slide around on the cpu a little before you bolt it down. I give it a little 1/8 a turn and put it back to the bolt down spot. You should feel it slide like it's lubricated on the bottom between it and the cpu. It doesn't take much. I'd say probably less than a 1mm layer but even not thin blank spots in the brush strokes. It should look even like a 2 coat paint job.

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That's what I do. A small fine paint brush. Like a nail polish brush. Paint on an even thin layer. And don't do it all the way the edges. Stay a little short of the edge (a mm or 2) so when the heat sink pushes down on it you don't have it overflow into the cpu socket. I got the brush idea from the zalman heat paste. It comes with one. I had problems in the past spreading the arctic silver ceramique. It's very sticky. Don't get any bristles from the brush stuck in it.

I don't put any on the heat sink itself. Put the cpu in the socket all painted up and then place the heat sink on it clean.

The only way the cpu could burn up is if it didn't have a heat sink. That's the only time I've seen them burn up. When the heat sink actually falls off or was not making contact at all. A core2duo at stock speed with a heat sink mounted will not burn up.

What process did they use to determine it was the cpu? Did they try a different cpu in your board or did they try that "bad" cpu in another board? I'm guessing neither. That's why I doubt the diagnosis.

I've always put a small ammount in the center of the chip then used a razor

blade to level it out. (the kind you use to scrape stickers off of stuff with a metal stiffener

on the back) I've never used the ceramique paste though.

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I doubt its a power problem, 520w $120 psu should be enough to get you powered up and run stable, although it may struggle in high end gaming etc...but it shouldnt.

Chances are your CPU is dead, when you switch the computer on, does it make beeping noise, just one beep, intermittent beeps, different beeps etc...or no beeps at all?

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I doubt its a power problem, 520w $120 psu should be enough to get you powered up and run stable, although it may struggle in high end gaming etc...but it shouldnt.

Chances are your CPU is dead, when you switch the computer on, does it make beeping noise, just one beep, intermittent beeps, different beeps etc...or no beeps at all?

one short beep

The peps up top^ said my ram was not getting enough power

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one short beep

The peps up top^ said my ram was not getting enough power

One short beep is the normal, so its not detecting any dodgy hardware, so it could then be a power problem, but the only way i can imagine that, is, if the PSU is faulty in itself. Although you have opted for a rather high end rig, so maybe you do need more power.

Hell i only buy $50 PSU's 500w and they run fine for my athlon dual core, 7600gt SLI config with the USB ports all full on peripheral hardware, extra harddrives, 2gig of ram etc...no extra fans at all, just the psu fan and the cpu fan, and i dont even get overheating!

EDIT: Ah i read the above, possibly a wrong voltage from the mobo to the ram, that does make sense and could be possible, although a mobo from factory setup should auto determine the voltage required etc...But yes it could be that, if you can get into the bios, then you should be able to setup a config that will at least boot up properly etc..

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One short beep is the normal, so its not detecting any dodgy hardware, so it could then be a power problem, but the only way i can imagine that, is, if the PSU is faulty in itself. Although you have opted for a rather high end rig, so maybe you do need more power.

Hell i only buy $50 PSU's 500w and they run fine for my athlon dual core, 7600gt SLI config with the USB ports all full on peripheral hardware, extra harddrives, 2gig of ram etc...no extra fans at all, just the psu fan and the cpu fan, and i dont even get overheating!

My power is 620w, They were saying the default bios power seeting is less that what the ram chips need.

You think thats the problem ?

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I have an old old CPU i tried brushing the past onto..It wont move, its too sticky and its pulling brushheads out of the brush...

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Ok I got better putting it on my old CPU....

There is all ready some thermal past on the cpu heatsink cooler combo, some gray kind. My past i bought is white and more sticky. You think I should take the old thermal off before i make the coat with my thermal past ?

For right now im going to try the heatsink that came with the CPU, i dont need any add-ons right now...

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Agh.. don't use a brush. You'll end up with particles in the paste or even brush hairs.

The best way to do it is to apply a thin line along the direction of the cores, from front to back of the case as it lies in the motherboard. Make sure the line is roughly 3-4mm across and in a bit from the edges at either side. You don't need to smooth this over the cpu. Just place the heatsink onto the cpu and gently turn it 3-4 degrees each direction while holding it down onto the cpu. Screw the heatsink down and you're all set. It's better not to have it spread over the entire cpu. Can save 1-2degrees and no need to spread the heatpaste out.

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I have an old old CPU i tried brushing the past onto..It wont move' date=' its too sticky and its pulling brushheads out of the brush...[/quote']

You got too low of a quality of brush. The nicer ones have bristles that don't come out that easy. The reason I use a brush is you've got to spread it with something. The Zalman heat paste comes with a brush similar to a nail polish container. I'd had problems getting it nice and even without making a mess so last time I tried a brush and really liked it. Just threw it away when I was done and I didn't get that sticky ceramique paste all over everything. Someone else suggested a razor blade and that sounds good. If you're careful it's easy to not get any brush hairs in the paste. The ceramique is stickier and harder to work with then any of the others I've seen but it works great. 2-4 degrees cooler than arctic silver 5.

You must remove all the stock paste and clean the heatsink bright and new with a fairly tough cleaner. Don't mix the ceramique and the stock paste. The stock cooler comes with enough on it preapplied. No need to put any on the cpu if you use the stock cooler.

So was the cpu burnt out or not? It sounded by your description that you used the old cpu? That would be the first time I've ever heard of someone burning up a cpu that actually had a working heat sink on it.

Put the tuniq tower back on their dude. You paid for it. It kicks the stock coolers *** big time. Now if you want to switch I think you might have to pull out the MB to mount the tuniq. Should have just left out the stock one.

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Im now posting on my new rig, downloading WW2/TeamSpeak/FireFox and I will post FPS/ext latter =)

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