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POssible to upgrade this ancient thing?

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The temp has dropped below 60C now I will continue to monitor it.

Now I'm haveing problems activating my copy of XP.

lol

You will probably need to call Microsoft and tell them on the helpline that you have changed your motherboard. At that point they should strike your old key from the database and issue you a new one. It's a pain but it shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to straighten it out.

As far as the temps are concerned, 69c idle is pretty friggin warm. You may want to install the easytune application form the motherboard disc and see what that says for idle and load temps in windows and report back. Ever since Intel switched to that 775 socket those heatsinks have been a bear to attach and it may not be properly attached as they take quite a bit of force to install.

With your build I would expect the CPU idle temp to be 40-50c idle and up 70c load. If you see a slide show running a game, I would assume at that point the heatsink is not making good contact and the CPU is declocking itself from the heat. If that is the case you will need to reseat the heatsink. If it really did have poor contact the TIM pad on the base will likely be untouched so simply reattaching without cleaning it and applying new TIM should not be necessary.

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I thought all the SATA connectors on that board were 3.0Gbps (not just the purple ones?)

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/motherboards/2008/11/21/gigabyte-ga-ep45-ud3r/2

Btw, how safe is it to touch the underside of the mobo? I've seen some vids with people doing that! I've always been paranoid...and hold them by the edges, even after discharging myself.

Of course, I didnt realize that the anti-static bags the mobos came in were basically Faraday cages...and the outsides were bad news :P It's a wonder I didnt cook one by laying it on it...

edit: I think I'm gonna pick up an anti-static mat kit.

All those SATA's are 3.0gbs, they just mention 3.0gbs on the separate Jmicron ports that use a Jmicron add on controller, the others are on the Intel motherboard chipset southbridge controller. Personally I would use Intel controller for internals and the Jmicrons for extrernal drives.

As far as static goes, I've never used any type ground bonding devices for computer assembly, I just make sure I discharge myself to the case beforehand(simply touching bare metal with one hand) and never do it while standing on carpet.

Those antistatic bags have have driven me nuts over the years as alot of people have suggested running/testing motherboards outside of the case sitting on one. Which, as you know, can facilitate a dead short between components. If I do run one out of a case it's on a dry piece of plywood.

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I thought all the SATA connectors on that board were 3.0Gbps (not just the purple ones?)

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/motherboards/2008/11/21/gigabyte-ga-ep45-ud3r/2

Btw, how safe is it to touch the underside of the mobo? I've seen some vids with people doing that! I've always been paranoid...and hold them by the edges, even after discharging myself.

Of course, I didnt realize that the anti-static bags the mobos came in were basically Faraday cages...and the outsides were bad news :P It's a wonder I didnt cook one by laying it on it...

edit: I think I'm gonna pick up an anti-static mat kit.

Well its not really Fatal to touch the back side of the board. you just need too be careful about handling them. A good thing to do is touch the bare metal chassis or the power supply case on the computer before digging into it.

I've just got the habit of holding every componant by the edges.

The reason for the weird set up on the sata ports. Dual Hard drive controllers.

If you look at modern day motherboards you'll see that most have 6 devices. either 2 IDE Slots and 2 SATAS or 1 IDE slot and 4 satas. remember that ide slots support two devices per channel.

now some mainboards have dual controllers like yours often the two by themselves are the ones you need to use for windows because you need to install the drivers for the secondary controller before being able to use it.

so the six over down near the bottom are on there own controller (Jmicron) and the two satas + IDE slot are your chipsets controller. those are your boot drives. the others are storage.

and there all 3.0G

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If you are willing to spend up to $800 then I would say go for the Intel chip.

I was AMD all the way but last year upgraded and the Intel is faster for sure.

Here is my spec which will get you 30 - 400 FPS in game (120 at FB's)

Just used newegg as a reference for you country pricing.

GTX 260 $189 +

Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Wolfdale 3.16GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor $189

GIGABYTE GA-EP45-DS4P LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX -$164.00 (I would not get this only one PCI slot - all pci express)

Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer $75

Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower (Brilliant case) $109

PSU - I have a 900W Antec so spend about $100 get at least 700W

CORSAIR Dominator 4GB (4 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) $154

Just buy 3GB of memory as XP only uses that but if 4 GB cheaper in a deal get it no biggie

500GB hard drive or whatever you need or use existing.

Sell your old rig on ebay get a few quid or it.

That total is $791 but by selecting the right power supply, a cheaper case and getting 3GB of memory and shopping around you can bring that below $700.

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Lol I'm late to the party see you've already got it.

!!!

Seems my advice is exactly what others have said pretty much and you bought the exact items.

Card and CPU identical, mobo similar - lesser model case - still good, lesser spec memory but huge saving on my cost.

Good work.

BTW if you didn't buy a cooler then newegg have a deal on open box models of the one I have. IT WILL cool your CPU much better than stock fan and reduce temp by around 10C - For $12.99 bargain. ($36 normally)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134R

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Well, it seems to be running at about 55C on startup, so I guess I'll have to get back in there and check the heatsink. IT was really hard to attach the heatsink, and i was afraid of pushing to hard and messing up the mobo.

Logged into the game last night and set it to best quality, and it was pretty nice, at about 50 fps.

Thanks guys.

Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new copy of xp cause microsoft keeps directing me to dell since it is a dell oem copy =(

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Well, it seems to be running at about 55C on startup, so I guess I'll have to get back in there and check the heatsink. IT was really hard to attach the heatsink, and i was afraid of pushing to hard and messing up the mobo.

Logged into the game last night and set it to best quality, and it was pretty nice, at about 50 fps.

Thanks guys.

Looks like I'm going to have to buy a new copy of xp cause microsoft keeps directing me to dell since it is a dell oem copy =(

Oh yea you cant use a dell product key with a regular Windows CD

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Update on CPU temp

at idle, surfing the net and just normal stuff the utility is showing the temp at around 34 - 40C.

When I'm in game it jumps up to above 60C again though.

Normal, or not?

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Update on CPU temp

at idle, surfing the net and just normal stuff the utility is showing the temp at around 34 - 40C.

When I'm in game it jumps up to above 60C again though.

Normal, or not?

Yeah that sounds fine, nothing wrong there.

You did install the intel motherboard p45 chipset drivers and the newer Nvidia graphics drivers? That 50FPS you mentioned earlier, was that in a busy town? If it was busy 50fps is pretty good IMO. I bet there's alot of guys with more $$$ in their rigs that get well below that for min fps in a hopping town.

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I installed the driver that came with the mobo, and i installe the latest driver fromt he nvidia website.

In a really busy town i was getting about 30 fps with some spikes a bit lower.

I haven't really tried to twink anything yet. But suggestions are always welcome!!

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I haven't really tried to twink anything yet. But suggestions are always welcome!!

If you aren't going to overclock it you can enable XMP(extreme memory profile) in the M.I.T. section of the bios. It will read the EPP settings on the SPD of the memory and set 5.0-4-4-12 timings by default(standard default is 5.0-5-5-18) which will add a small performance increase of read/write from lower latency. If you are overclocking you will want that(XMP) disabled so you can manual control the timings. If you do pursue overclocking of the CPU/memory I want you to know this Muskin ram overclocks very well and does it at much lower voltage than most other DDR2 modules. Most of the higher performance DDR2 modules have Micron D9 chips on the modules which require quite a bit of voltage to clock up. They are kind of standard like 2.2v for 1066MHz at CAS 5.0-5-5-15 give or take +-0.1v. My Mushkin's(same as yours) can do 1100MHz CAS 5.0-5-5-15 at 2.05 volts and 990MHz CAS 5.0-4-4-12 at 1.825v. Most folks that have been overclocking DDR2 are using the high voltage requiring Micron D9 based modules and normally will tell you to start off at 2.2-2.4 volts which is far more than these chips require and will likely kill them beyond 2.2v for an extended period. Just wanted to mention that so you didn't inadvertently cook your chips.

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Does anybody have any experience with the overclocking software that came with the Gigabyte mobo bios drivers??

Also, I went ahead and ordered a new cpu fan, the temps were just freaking me out, and i figured an aftermarket cooler wouldn't be bad to have anyway if I decide to play with overclocking at some point.

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Personally anytime I overclock I do it from the bios and run Memtest86+ first before ever booting the HDD OS. Memtest86+ can show errors from the memory/chipset/CPU without going to the trouble of corrupting data on your HDD to find that you either went too far or made a wrong adjustment. Don't get me wrong, it doesn't really load the CPU enough to catch all errors(Prime95 in windows works very well for that) but it can catch severe CPU instability before you try to load windows.

Prime95 32/64bit http://files.extremeoverclocking.com/file.php?f=103

Memtest86+ http://www.memtest.org

BTW which CPU cooler did you order?

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Does anybody have any experience with the overclocking software that came with the Gigabyte mobo bios drivers??

Also, I went ahead and ordered a new cpu fan, the temps were just freaking me out, and i figured an aftermarket cooler wouldn't be bad to have anyway if I decide to play with overclocking at some point.

Yup.

Also would make your cpu last longer.

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oKAY, Finally got the cooler in after some shipping snafus, installed and now ingame i am not rising over 35C. Pretty sweet, the TMI hasn't even set yet.

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The e8400 CPU will OC to 3.6 gig with just a couple of mouse clicks. The memory is 800 DDR so it runs at 400mhz and the standard mobo intel runs at 333..they call it 1333 which is just 4x333. You can increase the FSB speed to 400 so that the QFSB is 1600..400x4 and this takes the CPU from 3 gig to 3.6 gig with no extra cooling needed. I run this chip on a different mobo and it is rock stable. You will see some Bios setting that Links memory to FSB.

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oKAY' date=' Finally got the cooler in after some shipping snafus, installed and now ingame i am not rising over 35C. Pretty sweet, the TMI hasn't even set yet.[/quote']

Thermal material interface hehehee.

Yea most often with thermal paste you wont really see a decrease in overall tempature. But what you will see is it'll have a more gradual rise in tempature to its peak. with Bad TMI or a crap job you'll see sharp spikes in tempatures which is bad on the lifespan of the cpu. on a good job it ought to slowly rise in tempature. Speedfan should look like a hill instead of a mountain.

http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php

monitors your tempatures and if you want adjusts your case fans for you.

But i dont trust it to change my fan speeds. I just leave them at 100% all the time anyways. but the temps and charts are very usefull.

I've used it alot to diagnose crap power supplies. You can set it up to make a log of what ever you want really.

If you see your voltages dip under a severe load it can make you Blue screen. Lol back in the day i had a 300W crap HP psu trying to run a Athlon XP 3200+ and a 6600GT. Hahaha you'd see that 12v dip down into the 7.2V range and then the log would end (i blue screened).

Was so crap that it'd blue screen if the screen saver started. but it would sit and do windows desktop as long as you left it alone.

I dropped 300 Washingtons on a 600W enermax i'm still using now.

if you've got any open spots for adding fans on your case i'd consider filling them. 80mm fans can be had for 10$ in a 4 pack. it's gonna get Hawt in the summer.

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