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Figgy27

Getting a new Computer XD

43 posts in this topic

Hi guys, I posted a thread a long while back about getting a new computer. I have finally been able to accumalate $800 and am ready to go ahead and purchase parts.

I wanted some help with this from some of the gurus on here, help me out with computer builds that is. I took a computer class last year to learn how to put a computer together, but I honestly don't know where to begin with picking parts.

Help would be very much greatly appreciated! :D

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Alright, just a couple of questions I need to clarify before I start to seriously look at some things on there.

GDDR3, I have never heard of that, so if I was to get a video card that had on board RAM with GDDR3, would I also have to get RAM that was GDDR3?

Operating system, I don't need to buy a new one if I already have a windows XP disc correct? The same disc can be used for two different computers?

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Alright, just a couple of questions I need to clarify before I start to seriously look at some things on there.

GDDR3, I have never heard of that, so if I was to get a video card that had on board RAM with GDDR3, would I also have to get RAM that was GDDR3?

Operating system, I don't need to buy a new one if I already have a windows XP disc correct? The same disc can be used for two different computers?

No, graphics memory and system ram are two different things. Don't mix them together.

You need to see what your motherboard and CPU supports to decide what memory to get.

No, you can only use one license on one computer. If you're gonna use that old XP on your new rig you need to remove it on the old one, unless it's an OEM because then you might get into trouble "moving" it.

You "can" but it's not legal to do so...

ANd honestly, Win 7 is so much better than XP in every way. This coming from a M$ and windows hater like me...

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Full PC needs

Central proccessor (CPU)

System RAM (memory)

Graphics card (GPU)

power supply (PSU)

Mainboard (mobo)

Hard drive (HDD)

Good idea where to look on how to build a computer? youtube... litterly dozens of high quality how-tos on there on how to build almost any type of computer.

GDDR refers to Graphics memory (hense the G before DDR) thats intergrated with the video card.

DDR,DDR2,DDR3 is system ram, (the sticks)

For 800$ i'd really get a quality processor, good DDR3 memory, and a mid range graphics card if your just going to be playing ww2ol.

This is what i would shoot for defiantly in a computer for ww2ol, sub 1000 bucks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103846

AMD Phenom II X2 555 Black Edition Callisto 3.2GHz

(those can pop 3.5Ghz~3.9Ghz easy with overclocking)

Seriously one of the top performing Dual cores on the market right now period.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231224

G.SKILL 3GB (3 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130254

MSI 760GM-E51 AM3 AMD 760G

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

CORSAIR CMPSU-650TX 650W ATX12V

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150464

XFX HD-577A-ZNDC Radeon HD 5770 XXX Edition 1GB 128-bit DDR5

Thats all the basics you need minus the hard drive and computer case + fans and stuff. comes in about 550$ enough left over for a brand new 21~24" lcd panel.

Edited by indo420

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oh for windows XP

Use,

http://www.magicaljellybean.com/keyfinder/

That to pull your XP licence key before you break your old computer apart, make sure you have a full installation disc and not the "upgrade" or a "system restore" disc, those won't work, only that disc will work with that key, the seeding numbers are changed for different manufacturer and editions on windows CD/DVD's so a Dell windows XP COD won't work on a off the shelf windows disc. and vise versa.

I'd probably test it out and see whats up on your old computer if you can before you go and put your new computer together only to find out your COD won't work with that windows.

If anything just budget this in

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754&cm_re=windows_7-_-32-116-754-_-Product

Windows 7 Home premium OEM 64 bit ~99.99$

OEM just means there isn't any "microsoft" support... but i dunno about you.. i can't recount a time when i ever needed microsoft support LOL. So might as well save 135$ and bypass the useless amazing looking box anyways.

You also need 64 bit version of windows if you want to see more then about 3072MB of system memory, 4096MB of memory these days is recommended for a gaming computer, so 64 bit is important for a upgrade path in the future anyways. 64/32 bit windows have nothing to do with amount of graphics memory (GDDR) it can see, only system memory apparently.

on my 32 bit windows XP it only sees 3328MB of my 8196MB of system memory, i need to use Windows 7 64 bit to see my full 8.0GB of ram. (i've got dual operating systems..best o' both worlds)

have any other Questions just ask and somebody here probably knows the answer.

Edited by indo420

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Wow, thanks indo, that would have taken me 5 times as long. I suppose I'll just go with your build then, because I simply don't trust myself to put a good computer together, :rolleyes:.

I think I may then go ahead and get a new OS then as well, because I don't think either of my parents wants their computer without one.

A few more questions, :D

Would I have to purchase any cables or such then along with this? Or do they come with the parts?

What can my framerates be expected to be at the higher settings?

Wow, thanks guys. Seriously one of the best communities out there, period. I'd be so lost trying to figure this out on my own.

Edit: Ok, I don't know much about Operating Systems, but I basically need a 64 bit OS in order to not bottleneck my memory?

And if the bus speed of say the Memory and Video card is not equal, it'll just run at the lowest one, right?

Oh, and indo, may I have you email account? Bloo was nice enough to give me 7 days free forum access to get a computer set up, but I'll probably have more questions setting it up and such. I'll definately make use of those Youtube videos as well.

Edited by Figgy27

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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148511 Here was the hard drive I was thinking about. Picked it mostly because of the price.

I'm not exactly sure what to look for in a case other than size... Is there anything else I should to to make sure that the parts will fit inside other than comparing the parts' dimensions to the case?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811154094

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Why do you suggest 3x1Gb memory for an AMD? That's just about the baddest idea of them all.

Only dual channel mode so a 2x2gb is the only choise.. having 3 memory modules will only reduce performance.

Ok, I don't have too much knowledge with that, but I do where it says dual channel.

How about this then?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211364

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Wow, thanks indo, that would have taken me 5 times as long. I suppose I'll just go with your build then, because I simply don't trust myself to put a good computer together, :rolleyes:.

I think I may then go ahead and get a new OS then as well, because I don't think either of my parents wants their computer without one.

A few more questions, :D

Would I have to purchase any cables or such then along with this? Or do they come with the parts?

What can my framerates be expected to be at the higher settings?

Wow, thanks guys. Seriously one of the best communities out there, period. I'd be so lost trying to figure this out on my own.

Edit: Ok, I don't know much about Operating Systems, but I basically need a 64 bit OS in order to not bottleneck my memory?

And if the bus speed of say the Memory and Video card is not equal, it'll just run at the lowest one, right?

Oh, and indo, may I have you email account? Bloo was nice enough to give me 7 days free forum access to get a computer set up, but I'll probably have more questions setting it up and such. I'll definately make use of those Youtube videos as well.

No problem,

oh i picked the triple stick option since he might be using a 32 bit operating system (unless you got that 64, then it'd bump it upto 4, cause that mainboard has 4 available slots)

And he can always toss an additional 1024MB stick in there for cheap down the road and enable Dual channel. but 3072MB is a sweet spot for a budget build in my opinion, even with the lack of a ganged mode.

I honestly didn't notice a flippin' difference between 2x2048MB Un-ganged 64bit and 4x2048MB Ganged 128Bit on my system, 3dmark said 100 points difference, but as far as games and compressing and general usage... no assertional difference for me. Sure as hell can run multiple instances of photoshop at once though LOL.

I'll fill this out more with some opinions and go over that parts list to double, triple check that all them parts are compatible, i wouldn't want you buying the parts i listed only to see that they don't work for some odd reason together. Technically they should, but its always best to make DAMN sure first you know.

Edit: Ok, I don't know much about Operating Systems, but I basically need a 64 bit OS in order to not bottleneck my memory?

Not so much "bottleneck", as the amount of physical ram it can see, 32 bit versions of windows can see about 3.0GB of memory, while 64 bit can see upwards of 128GB of memory... So if you want more then 3.0GB of memory, you have to use a 64 bit operating system.

But they run and function just about the same as 32 bit windows, no real obvious differences.

Some (mostly all now) processors also can see a distinct advantage in a 64 bit operating system, but you need 64 bit software for you to see that speed. (32 bit programs work just fine, 64 bit versions just run faster)

well anyways tired right now but i read this message, ill PM you my email and stuff tommorow, Went out on a date and got banged pretty good.. so peace to my 9, im going to bed LOL.

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I haven't noticed any difference between ganged and unganged either, but running dual channel mode IS better than single channel which you will end up getting if you populate 3 slots instead of 2 or all 4.

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I think I'll go with the 2X2Gig sticks. I don't know too much about ganged and unganged, but I'm doing some research on that now. I think I'm mostly going for 2X2Gigs because of the deal I found on Newegg. 2X2Gigs priced at about $25 for each gig, and hey, it's four instead of three. I figure I'll go with the 64 bit OS so that I can take advantage of 4 gigs and have some flexibilty down the road. Since this will be my own computer I can always just take the OS out and nobody else will have a problem with it.

I think that I may just skip buying a new Monitor, and just use my Dad's old one. I don't know what model it is, but I can call later and ask, or I can go see for myself next Wedsday.

I was actually trying to go ahead and check compatability, but I'm bound not to know every little detail. :confused:

Hopefully this first build goes smoothly. Thanks a TON again guys. This would be totally impossible without some expert help and advice.

Oh yeah, I remember from my class last year that when working with computer parts, they recommended anti-static devices, like the wristband and anti-static work mat. Are those necessary? They said that it only took about 150 volts to damage a computer part or something.

Edited by Figgy27

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I think I'll go with the 2X2Gig sticks. I don't know too much about ganged and unganged, but I'm doing some research on that now. I think I'm mostly going for 2X2Gigs because of the deal I found on Newegg. 2X2Gigs priced at about $25 for each gig, and hey, it's four instead of three. I figure I'll go with the 64 bit OS so that I can take advantage of 4 gigs and have some flexibilty down the road. Since this will be my own computer I can always just take the OS out and nobody else will have a problem with it.

I think that I may just skip buying a new Monitor, and just use my Dad's old one. I don't know what model it is, but I can call later and ask, or I can go see for myself next Wedsday.

I was actually trying to go ahead and check compatability, but I'm bound not to know every little detail. :confused:

Hopefully this first build goes smoothly. Thanks a TON again guys. This would be totally impossible without some expert help and advice.

Oh yeah, I remember from my class last year that when working with computer parts, they recommended anti-static devices, like the wristband and anti-static work mat. Are those necessary? They said that it only took about 150 volts to damage a computer part or something.

Just touch the computer chassis itself or any large chunk of metal you know has good electical potential before you take them parts out of the bag, Not trying to eliminate all static, just putting yourself at the same potential as the stuff your working on, long as you aren't shufflin your cotton socks along the carpet while you work on your computer you ought to be fine.

I looked and that board does specifically support that cpu without a bios flash. So you shouldn't have any problems. you can check processor compatibility by going to the manufacturer website and looking at the supported CPU list per board. most will also include a bios number that tells you what version is needed for each type of processor, but that newegg says its the 2nd revision, and that cpu has been supported since the 1st version of that bios.

If its a old monitor, you might need a VGA to DVI adapter, but those come with most if not all graphics cards. and there like 5$ at the store anyways.

Hell if your not getting a new monitor, and still want to spend the 800$ theres always this processor.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808&cm_re=X4_955-_-19-103-808-_-Product

AMD Phenom II X4 955 3.2Ghz Deneb Black Edition

Make sure if you do want to get that processor, you get the one with BGM in the model number and not BGI,

BGM has the DDR3/DDR2 memory controller, while the BGI has the older controller, you'll also need a different mainboard.

If you want to spend that full 800$ i can spit out a monstrous list of parts that'll really plow through games without problems.

If you can really swing it i'd go for a Quad, not really any advantages in ww2ol, or ww2ol 1.31,still no dual,triple,quad support on new ww2ol :(, game also doesn't see more then 2048MB of memory per application.

But every other game there is a tremendous difference, most new games coming out now demand a quad core for any resemblance of quality game play period.

Battlefield Bad company is spectacular on the computer man. so is Just cause 2 (CUDA enabled water, Super SSAO) and you'll need a Quad and a king kong video card for those games.

That 5770 is more then upto the task of playing those games, but the dual core processor would lag the hell out of you.. So i guess if your only intention is playing ww2ol. then i'd shoot for the dual core, Want to play other games i'd try and wrangle a quad core in the mix.

Edited by indo420

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I only plan on playing ww2ol really. Maybe some company of heroes, but no other first person shooter games really.

Oh, so ww2ol only sees 2 gigs of memory at once? Why do they recommend four gigs then?

I'm actually not intending to spend the whole $800. Need to reserve some for games and a ww2ol subscription.

The only other game I would be playing than ww2ol would probably be Company of Heroes during intermission or something. I already have Battlefield Bad company 2 for my 360 anyways. Yeah so this rig will basically be dedicated to ww2ol.

Any reccomendations for a case? Or should I probably just shoot for the cheaper ones that are Med-Large?

The Mother board says that the power pin # is 24. The power supply says 20+4Pin. That still works then right?

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No no no, don't go for any cheap case. You might end up with a real cooling problem if you do.

If you want a mid size case I'd recommend the CoolerMaster CM 690 II. It's a good one for it's price. Not the smallest one but not the biggest one either and it has plenty of fans and possibilities for extra fans if you want and need any.

Otherwise I recommend the case I have. It's big and expensive but it's the best case I've ever had.

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$100 on a case? I didn't know that they could get that expensive. Does it count that the RAM has a heat spreader, the vid card has a fan, and the power supply has a fan? Or I mean, could those be taken into account when purchasing a case? Or am I better off with the coolmaster?

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If the airflow through the case is bad it won't matter how many fins, spreaders and such there is. The air will just circulate inside the case and become hotter and hotter, resulting in an eventual failure.

There are probably cheaper cases that will do a decent job, I just don't know of any. I don't think $100 is much for a case, I paid twice that for the one I have now. ;)

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Nvm, the case comes with 3 fans.

I guess I still need disk drives though....

Edit (again) ok so this is what I found. I don't think I could be going wrong with this, but I might as well get confirmation. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106276

Another random question, does the CPU come with a heat sink compound?

Edited by Figgy27

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I only plan on playing ww2ol really. Maybe some company of heroes, but no other first person shooter games really.

Oh, so ww2ol only sees 2 gigs of memory at once? Why do they recommend four gigs then?

I'm actually not intending to spend the whole $800. Need to reserve some for games and a ww2ol subscription.

The only other game I would be playing than ww2ol would probably be Company of Heroes during intermission or something. I already have Battlefield Bad company 2 for my 360 anyways. Yeah so this rig will basically be dedicated to ww2ol.

Any reccomendations for a case? Or should I probably just shoot for the cheaper ones that are Med-Large?

The Mother board says that the power pin # is 24. The power supply says 20+4Pin. That still works then right?

Yea the 20+4 is a 24, just some older boards have a 20 pin connection instead of the 24, so the 4 pop off to be backwards compatible.

I'd probably shoot for a mid tower case. with a 120mm exhaust and a 120mm intake, side panel vent or a fan on the side as well right towards the graphics card. and yea cases can get upwards of 1,000$ for really nice ones. Paid just about 250$ for mine when i bought it.

nq8uf9.jpg

Here are some cases i'd recommend that won't break the bank, but don't look like a piece of crap either.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119197

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147144

If the computers gonna be primarily for ww2ol, then that processor will do completely fine. Remember that calisto (with the aid of a better processor cooler) can do upwards of 3.5~3.7Ghz without a sweat.

Them black editions have a unlocked multiplier, Which means you can change the value to what ever you want and effectively make the processor run that speed without having to change any other settings like you do on traditional processors, which = supreme stability and your able to OC the hell out of the processor with out the need for overclocking ram and a really nice mainboard with a active cooled northbridge.

Edit (again) ok so this is what I found. I don't think I could be going wrong with this, but I might as well get confirmation. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827106276

will work fine, And yes Boxed proccessors come with a heatsink/fan and thermal paste applied to the bottom, but its really a one shot deal with them stock pads, so be careful and you'll need to re-do the paste if you ever pop the sink off.

Hard drives?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145215

Not the fastest hard drive out there, but its 54$ for 500GB, can't go wrong with that hahahahah. you can probably re-use at least 1 hard drive on your new computer, mainboards still come with 1 IDE/PATA slot. so DVD rom + old HDD.

You need the extra ram because even if ww2ol just sees 2048MB, you'll still want the rest of windows and other applications you have going + its just that much more of a buffer, and win7 uses almost 1024MB of ram just to run normally.

No PSU,CPU,GPU,NB and other fans don't count towards chassis fans, chassis fans are just there to intake cool and exhaust the hot air, more fans and the larger they are..obviously the better. device fans are there just to cool that device, usually you want the chassis fans to aid the device cooling, and the rear fan to exhaust the hot air built up in the case. I doubt you'll be running into problems with those parts, there all pretty low wattage, and lower power consumption = less heat.

my 5770 rarely sees above 140F and processor never really sees over 126F, but i've some some bedazzeled cooling here hahah.

as long as it doesn't look super obvious the case is going to suck and airflow you should be alright, just look for large 120mm fans in the front and back that suits your wallet and personal tastes for what a PC should look like to you.

Edited by indo420

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Your case looks like a rocket ship man haahahhah! That's awesome.

Thanks for being really cool about my questions man. Don't want to screw this up, or my parents would never allow me to do this again. :rolleyes:

I think I've exhausted myself of questions now...

So do you think I'm ready to order now?

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147144

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145215

Disk Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106276

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211364

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103846

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130254

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

Video Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150464

Planning on using old Monitor/mouse/keyboard

Expected price: $716.48 (that includes tax, which is 7% in PA I think...)

Edited by Figgy27

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Your case looks like a rocket ship man haahahhah! That's awesome.

Thanks for being really cool about my questions man. Don't want to screw this up, or my parents would never allow me to do this again. :rolleyes:

I think I've exhausted myself of questions now...

So do you think I'm ready to order now?

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147144

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145215

Disk Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106276

RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211364

Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103846

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130254

Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005

Video Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150464

Planning on using old Monitor/mouse/keyboard

Expected price: $716.48 (that includes tax, which is 7% in PA I think...)

Yea man no problem at all... Your going to s@#t your pants (parents as well) at the performance of the computer your about to get.

Everything on that list will work and looks great.

And its realistically future proof. you can down the road plop in a lower wattage quad core processor when they are cheap. and a additional 4GB of ram if you ever feel you need it and with that 650W power supply its more the ample to power the highest class of video card. I've used MSi boards since the very start of it, right around the early to mid 90's.. Never had a single MSi board fail... Theres a 866Mhz P3 Slot processor that i gave my friends mom i built around 1998 thats still going to this day with a Msi board in it. So if you do it right the first time, it ought to be a computer yall can use for a very long time.

Any questions about building it or getting it together, just take pictures and post them here. I check this place more then i check my email. But its all really straight forward these days, no jumpers or dip switches you gotta look through books to get working lol

You'll probably want to post back here when its working, you'll need to install all of the chipset,SMGART,video audio drivers and that crap to make it work to its full potential, (motherboard drivers make a tremendous difference) and just pan out the errors.

Edited by indo420

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I have no clue how to thank you man. I'll call my dad to make orders.

I will finally be able to play on something that is not a skidmark in computing history... :):):)

Thank-you soo much man.

You really are an expert, or at least you damn well look that way!

I'm so excited, this is going to be awesome.

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I have no clue how to thank you man. I'll call my dad to make orders.

I will finally be able to play on something that is not a skidmark in computing history...

Thank-you soo much man.

You really are an expert, or at least you damn well look that way!

I'm so excited, this is going to be awesome.

No problem at all, If you come across any problems while building it just ask. can always send me a pm or what ever.

I do point of sales equipment (p.o.s) repair, so desktop and this sort of crap is up my alley a little bit, and i've been messing with computers since i was 13 (dads a computer geek for ElectroRent-Tech, and former NIMA employee.. got me started on it)

If you do any single upgrade to it down the road, i'd get a new processor heatsink so you can overclock it and turn that 3.2Ghz into a 3.5~3.7Ghz, makes a difference on ww2ol.

Somebodys always got a different name for what my computer looks like.

Gotten bullet train,Darth vader helmet (most popular),fighter jet and the MTT from star wars was a recent one that actually does look like my chassis.

20uqsdw.jpg

mctbvc.jpg

Some people think its cool as hell, others seem to think its ugly.. really a cool chassis to see in person since the paint job on them are on par with a mercedes or lexus. Another cool thing is its so one off and strange looking it doesn't really become dated, that case is from late 2003, Can guarantee any other case from 2003 would look old as hell at this point. Not the most functional chassis in the world (only 4 HDD spots and its a midtower class inside) But the cooling concept was ahead of its time for sure. Most cases in 2000-2004 era didn't have ANY front or side intakes, they were still the standard square box, and window'd cases were like fantabulously new hahaha.

Speaking of windows, this is my current project im fiddlin with, bud420's computer.

PInI-8ke47Q

It's polyvision, a electronically tintable window. Currently trying to find a good solid 12v DC to 24V AC relay with a photo sensor, The glass will go clear whenever it sees light (think neons) so it ought to be sound sensitive.

Should be extremely f@#king cool for the glass to frost/clear and the neons turn on off with the beat of the music.

Best of luck and again (i'll shoot you my email and stuff) got any problems building it, just stop..take a picture and post it on here... somebody will usually know whats up and what you need to do.

and the number #1 rule? If it doesn't fit, don't force it cause your probably not doing it right.

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Oops. Forgot OS. :rolleyes:

I guess then it comes out to $823.47

You said I could just use the old hard drive then correct? Might have to so as to have something left over for games.

Would it be as easy as taking the old hard drive out of my old computer and just sticking it right in my new one?

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