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Yeah it would have been nice with a window as well but maybe I can see something through the enormous fan holes lol.

I just noticed when reading about the cheaper alternative to the motherboard that the PSU does match so it probably fits the other one as well so that's good.

The ram is 2 x 1GB sticks and it costs about 300 USD. I saw the one you linked to but the shop I'm gonna order this from only has big brands like corsair, etc. I'm trying to cut down in cost here and there. I've decided that I'm gonna take a 500GB secondary hdd instead since that will probably be enough for a while anyway and it saved me 200 USD. Also I won't take the FATAL1TY version of the sound card skipping the X-RAM. With 2GB of normal RAM I may not see any difference anyway, if it works like I think it does, correct me if I'm wrong.

One reason to that it seems expensive could be that the taxes are quite high here in Sweden (25%) compared to the US. I'm hoping to be able to buy this through my company though so I won't have to pay all that. Luckily I still live at home and don't pay any rent yet so I should be able to save up to it quite soon.

Actually the monitor is the thing I'm most unsure about right now and I've heard before people saying that Samsung monitors are good so I should take a look at that. Also a black monitor might look better to this setup since both chassis and keyboard/mouse are black.

Well with this CPU as starting point I should be able to go even higher right? That's if I want to clock it, is there any risk in doing so? or is it safe as long as you have a good fan?

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For some reason the e6300 and e6400 seem to overclock a little higher than the higher end one's. Something about only having 2 megs of cache helps get higher clock speeds more stable I think. The 4 meg cache one's overclock good too but I'm a regular on the abit MB forums and the other regulars who have the 6600 and a 6300 will tell you that the 66 doesn't seem to overclock quite as high as the 6300 in the same MB.

You can skimp a little on the ram as long as you get at least ddr800 that will at least allow you to obtain a 400fsb overclock. If you get higher quality ddr800 that runs latency 4 than you can usually raise it to 5 and get to ddr1000 speeds if you're lucky. You should be able to get a good quality 2 gig kit of ddr800 for $200-$250 us dollars. Gskill is a good brand that seems to beat corsairs prices by a little.

I consider anything under 3gHz with a core2duo on an aftermarket cooler risk free. Especially if you don't mess with the voltages. As long as you mounted the heatsink right you won't burn it up. No way.

The 6300 in the chart I linked above is in a gigabyte DS3 965P MB. They got it to 3.4 stable which is almost 2000 fsb in an e6300 because it's locked to a 7x multiplier the fsb must go sky high to hit 3.4

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if you want my one opinion..

Get a Enermax.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817194001

they are expensive. but hell iv'e got one, bud420 has one my sister has one and my brother in law has one. They arn't flashy. but they earned the name "The champ" Iv'e ripped my SOB with overclocking more then once. everything i could ever throw at it it's taken and still performs like its just out of the box. not to mention with Wide load 80% Eff rating it's easy on the electric bill.

note on the ZALMAN that 84% is at 240v not 110v. running 220V is easier and better on a power supply. but do you have a Dryer plug in your room?

The Enermax is rated at...LOL 89.3% at 240V

This Noisetaker 600W looks beautiful, is built solid, and runs like a champ.

http://www.extremeoverclocking.com

24 hours of continuous stress passed by the Enermax without a trace. All measurements and also the specification of a combined load coincided with the specification. Consequently, the Enermax Noisetaker EG701AX-VE(W)emerges from the test once again.

www.Tomshardware.com

heh yah...

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I don't know indo. It's not modular. Once you go modular, you can't go back to spaghetti. Modulars make your case so clean. Plus that's an older standard PSU with a 3volt rail. They've got rid of that voltage to make more room in the same amount of watts on the 12v for video cards. You want EPS 12v 2.91 That's the new standard. I checked at Asus. Just as I suspected that 650i MB has an 8pin cpu power plug. Half of it is black so you can't see it in the pic next to the black pcb.

I'd take this enermax over the one you linked. It's got 22amp 12 volt rails and it's modular. $114

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817194003

One extra note. Only the more expensive Asus and MSI 650i chipset MB's run the pci bus in 16x while in sli mode. The cheaper ones can only run SLI with x8 pci slots.

This is the board you want

Pros: This board eliminates numerous stability issues present in almost every 680i board I've seen. How did Asus do this? Because they did something that most other manufacturers didn't do. They used the far more mature southbridge from the AMD 590 series, and combined it with the far lower heat, less problematic 650i. End result? You get a board that actually works right under Vista without disabling or tricking around in BIOS. You get full 2*16 SLI support. And, if you're using RAID you get far better disc scores.

Newegg customer reviews on Asus P5N32-E SLI nvidia 650i chipset

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The shop I'm using only has the Enermax 1000W. I might consider one of the Enermax'es if I find one at another shop though. The ZALMAN is just a little more expensive and it's got a blue led inside which really appeals to me lol. Dryer plug? All plugs in Europe are 220-240v.

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Final(?) shopping list:

INTEL CORE 2 DUO E6600 2.4GHZ 4MB 1066MHZ S-775

ASUS P5N32-E SLI PLUS SOCKET 775 SLI ATX

CORSAIR 2GB DDR2 PC6400 800MHZ XMS2 XTREME (2X1GB) HEATZINK

WESTERN DIGITAL RE 160GB 7200RPM SATA/300 16MB

WESTERN DIGITAL RE-2 500GB 7200RPM SATA/300 16MB

BFG GEFORCE 8800GTS 640MB OC HDTV DVI-I HDCP PCI-E

CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER X-FI XTREMEGAMER

XCLIO WINDTUNNEL CHASSIS FULL TOWER

ZALMAN PSU 600W-HP SILENT

ZALMAN CNPS9500LED SKT-478/775/754/939/940

[2X] AKASA 120X120MM BLUE LED 3-PIN

SAMSUNG DVD±R/RW/RAM DL LS 18X S-ATA BULK BLACK

LOGITECH CORDLESS DESKTOP MX5000 LASER (BLUETOOTH)

SPEEDLINK HEADSET MEDUSA 5.1 PROGAMER

ARCTIC SILVER 5 (3.5 GRAMS)

I'm quite happy with this now. Total cost 2800 USD but that's without monitor. I read a lot of reviews and I came to the conclusion that I should go to a store instead and try a few models out before I make up my mind. I've heard a lot of good things about Samsung monitors but the reviews are not very positive especially about the 22" ones which seem to have a lot of problems. Monitor budget is about 500-600 USD.

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Final(?) shopping list:

INTEL CORE 2 DUO E6600 2.4GHZ 4MB 1066MHZ S-775

ASUS P5N32-E SLI PLUS SOCKET 775 SLI ATX

CORSAIR 2GB DDR2 PC6400 800MHZ XMS2 XTREME (2X1GB) HEATZINK

WESTERN DIGITAL RE 160GB 7200RPM SATA/300 16MB

WESTERN DIGITAL RE-2 500GB 7200RPM SATA/300 16MB

BFG GEFORCE 8800GTS 640MB OC HDTV DVI-I HDCP PCI-E

CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER X-FI XTREMEGAMER

XCLIO WINDTUNNEL CHASSIS FULL TOWER

ZALMAN PSU 600W-HP SILENT

ZALMAN CNPS9500LED SKT-478/775/754/939/940

[2X] AKASA 120X120MM BLUE LED 3-PIN

SAMSUNG DVD±R/RW/RAM DL LS 18X S-ATA BULK BLACK

LOGITECH CORDLESS DESKTOP MX5000 LASER (BLUETOOTH)

SPEEDLINK HEADSET MEDUSA 5.1 PROGAMER

ARCTIC SILVER 5 (3.5 GRAMS)

I'm quite happy with this now. Total cost 2800 USD but that's without monitor. I read a lot of reviews and I came to the conclusion that I should go to a store instead and try a few models out before I make up my mind. I've heard a lot of good things about Samsung monitors but the reviews are not very positive especially about the 22" ones which seem to have a lot of problems. Monitor budget is about 500-600 USD.

Look at what they're complaining about though. Backlights and view angles. Not dead pixels and monitors failing like other brands. Some people will always find something to complain about. I did notice the 22" wide had a few more people complaining about the backlight. Far as I know WW2 still doesn't support wide screen. They probably will in the near future but it's something to think about. For now you'd be playing with bars on the sides of the screen making your game the size of a 19" anyway. The resolutions that standard size monitors run are more common.

Here's a standard dimensions 20" with some good #'s and reviews. It does 1600x1200 res. One of my squaddies in town has one. So, I've used it first hand. Great monitor. It's big enough and sharp enough he uses the 1600x1200 res for his desktop. Makes for a lot of real estate. Text is no problem, clear as day even at that res.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16824001226

If the price difference makes room for it. The thermal paste that the Zalman9700 comes with actually outperforms arctic silver 5, I've read reviews. It's good stuff. They don't give it away with the 9500 though. So if the silver is $10 and that's the price difference between the 9500 and 9700 than dump the arctic silver and get a 9700 it comes with better thermal grease anyway. It's also a little quieter. If you don't overclock much you can nearly run it fanless. Especially with the case you have it can definatly run at low speed.

You can save a little money on your second hard drive. If it's just for storage you don't need one of the newer ones with 16meg cache. An older cheaper one will do and you won't notice the difference. Even a 5400 RPM would work fine with 2megs of cache for storage. Just somewhere else I noticed you could save a little.

Another little accessory. I love these keyboards. Blue backlight keys to go with your power supply. Heavy with big rubber feet to stop slippage and nice responce on the keys. It's sold as a gaming keyboard. I like it better than the logitechs

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16823175103

There's also a newer slightly more expensive version that has 3 different backlight color options, but it's silver.

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The shop I'm using only has the Enermax 1000W. I might consider one of the Enermax'es if I find one at another shop though. The ZALMAN is just a little more expensive and it's got a blue led inside which really appeals to me lol. Dryer plug? All plugs in Europe are 220-240v.

lol we run the safter (more expensive) 110v 60Hz over here. 220V lines over here are for A/C units stoves and dryers.

sorry i didnt know you we're in europe :D

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Right now I'm leaning towards 2 x Samsung SyncMaster 19" 940BF. The 2 would be 700 USD which sounds like a pretty good deal since, according to reviews, the quality is not too bad. The 204B seems nice but some reviews say anything less than 1600x1200 significantly lowers the image quality. I've had a 21" CRT and 1600x1200 makes text, etc. very small so it would be good to be able to choose a lower resolution without problems depending on how far away from myself I'll put the monitor(s).

They didn't seem to have any 500GB drives with less than 16MB cache. I read a few hdd reviews and came across quite a few horror stories about drives dying. Since I'll also use this computer for work it would be next to a disaster if the main drive died loosing all the content. I'm a designer and photographer btw. It seems RAID 1 is a way to feel more secure. What are your thoughts about it? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID_1#RAID_1 It would only cost me 80 USD extra so it would definitely be worth it lowers the risk of loosing all the data.

Update:

INTEL CORE 2 DUO E6600 2.4GHZ 4MB 1066MHZ S-775

ASUS P5N32-E SLI PLUS SOCKET 775 SLI ATX

CORSAIR 2GB DDR2 PC6400 800MHZ XMS2 XTREME (2X1GB) HEATZINK

[2X] WESTERN DIGITAL RE 160GB 7200RPM SATA/300 16MB (for RAID 1)

SEAGATE BARRACUDA ES 500GB 7200RPM SATA/300 16MB

BFG GEFORCE 8800GTS 640MB OC HDTV DVI-I HDCP PCI-E

CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER X-FI XTREMEGAMER

XCLIO WINDTUNNEL CHASSIS FULL TOWER

ZALMAN PSU 600W-HP SILENT

ZALMAN CNPS9700 LED ULTRA QUIET CPU COOLER

[2X] AKASA 120X120MM BLUE LED 3-PIN

SAMSUNG DVD±R/RW/RAM DL LS 18X S-ATA BULK BLACK

SPEEDLINK HEADSET MEDUSA 5.1 PROGAMER

I'm skipping a new keyboard/mouse for now. I have a wireless Logitech combo which is working great still though it doesn't look as nice any more after thousands of hours of use the last 3 years. The reviews of the MX5000 was surprisingly bad so I'll just wait till there's something better coming out.

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The problem with that logic is you're comparing a crt to an lcd.

When I ran a 19" crt I ran my desktop at 1024x768. My game was at 1280x1024 though. It was what felt comfortable with text and such on the internet. When I got my LCD. (I have a Samsung 940BX) I was able to change my regular desktop to 1280x1024 and text is fairly large and readable. Just as easy on my old crt at 1024x768 IMO.

I've actually seen the 20.1" samsung I linked with a 1600x1200 desktop and it's quite easy to read. LCD's are just very sharp and clear. That difference allows for a higher desktop res. Really. I'd go for 1600x1200. It looks awsome in game on a nice LCD. I myself am limited to 1280x1024 for a native res and I'm jelous of my buddys.

If you do get a 19" the Samsung 940bx that I have is one of the only LCD's I've seen with a 1000:1 contrast ratio and a 300cd backlight. It looks great too, very black. I have a crt for my second extended desktop monitor and it looks dark grey next to it. It also has the higher end stand with height adjustment. The GTG time is 5ms so it's fairly fast and doesn't ghost. It is exceptionally bright. Too bright in fact but that's easily fixed by turning the brightness down to about 40%. It's nice to have the extra. It looks awsome in some games to have those really bright colors.

Raid 1 is very easy to set up if you do it from the get go and it's a great way to get twice the security of your data. If you have a hard drive fail you just take it out and it doesn't effect your computer a bit and replace it. However, you must buy twice the room to have half the storage. 2 160's in raid1 equals 1 160 gig hard drive. The other is just a mirror.

Raid0 is nice for speed. It also won't eat up half your storage. You can get 2 of those 160gig 16meg WD hard drives for $62 each. With a raid0 it makes them into one 320gig HD with twice the bandwidth. These are half as reliable. I just thought I'd run it by.

You could look at buying a larger slower external for storage. That's what I ended up doing. I like it. It was cheap and it only runs when I access it. Not like most internals so I think it will last forever. It just takes about 2 seconds to first access it if I haven't in 20 min or so while it wakes up.

Here's the external I have. http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/ProductDetail.jsp?ProductCode=101220-15

They're stackable with little stick on rubber pads. You can buy more later and make a bank of em. If you need more room.

You could run all your work stuff off of that and raid 0 2 small drives for games. Then you can unplug it and take your work including all the programs for it with you. Back it up regularly with DVD's.

That's shaping up to be a real bad!@# machine... =) Not really budget but not all out I guess either. I think it's going to be a real shame to not have a side view window to keep that sweet MB with the fat Zalman chunk of copper in the middle like a jet engine on display.

Here's a pic of my Zalman. Everyone trips out on it. Nice to have a window. As you can tell I recycled an old case. It's got great airflow with that 120mm on the side. A little dusty at the moment.

CopyofIMG_0646.jpg

My wifes monitor makes me jelous though check it out 26" wide HDTV. It looks great. Pictures look amazing, better than my LCD for photos I think. I still haven't tried WW2 on it yet. GTA san andreas looks great. My wife is a photographer too. I built her that pink tower for Christmas.

IMG_0648.jpg

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For web design I prefer not having a very high resolution since the websites made för 800x600 or 1024x768 will look so small. Print design is the opposite though but 1280x1024 is probably going to be enough for me. Indeed the 940BX seems like a better option with the higher contrast and 5ms is good enough for gaming. Seems like it will be 2 of those.

I was looking at that external hdd before. Might be a shame not use all the space in the chassis but as you say, they probably last longer since you only use it when you need it. Another good thing would be that I could also plug it into my portable computer. I'll consider it.

Yes it would be nice to have a window. I just saw a pic of that 8800GTS. Both that and the CPU fan is really something you would want to show off! I'll look around and see if there are any better alternatives but at the same time I kinda like the air conditioning unit lol.

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There's this other xclio that's cool. The one I linked earlier. It's got a huge side window.

airbus.jpg

The black one is listed in the mid tower section. I think it's a misprint. The reviews say it's a full tower. They all say it's huge anyway. If you look at the pics with the side off it looks like the same size as the silver one they have listed as a full tower. I know most people see this case and think it's noisy. It's the opposite everyone talks about how quiet it is. A larger fans like these can run low rpm's and still move alot of air.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811103010

Those gigabyte cases are really high quality. More of a classy look than the Xclios. I built one last year. I was impressed. The front door is 1/8" thick aluminum with magnetic catches and medal hinges. All aluminum w/ pre made holes for water cooling lines. I liked the dual 120mm fans in the back too. It's got a small side view window. I just noticed it has a screen in it. That might be nice to defuse the light but still allow for a little show. The one I got had a clear window this screen is new.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811233002

When I bought it I got 2 60+ cfm 120mm blue led fans for the back. The reviews said the 2 that it comes with are a little weak on airflow.

Then you end up with 2 extra of those clear 120mm fans. One spare if others fail and If you want a little extra cooling you can put one in the side window with a dremel tool cut opening in the acrylic and blow in fresh air right down on the cpu and video card. It can make a 3-5 degree difference depending on how much airflow your case had to start.

This balanced the gigabyte out better too it had too much output and not enough input from the factory. I've always heard you want more fans blowing in than out. A positive pressure in the case forces air out where your chipset cooler is on the back too. Notice this is how the xclio is built. 2 250mm fans blowing in and only 1 120mm blowing out. I bet it cools great. The new MB's with heatpipe chipset coolers have a heatsink near the keyboard plug with no fan. The Zalmans help this chipset cooler too because they blow sideways toward the back.

Funny thing is that with the side off the inside design of these 2 cases is the same, minus the 2 120mm fan holes in the back of the gigabyte. It's got the same tool box built in and the same hard drive bays. I noticed alot of manufactures look like that with the side off. It's a very popular new design. I removed the toolbox because it's right in the airflow path of the front fan.

It's totally possible to get too many lights. Watch out. They get too bright and in your face. If you leave it DLing while you sleep it lights the room up like a Christmas tree. Those big 250's on that case are blue too. If you think it's too bright when you first build it wait a few days. It will get dusty and the lights will dim the dustier it gets. With all that airflow you'll be blowing it out once a month or so. I do. Just get an air compressor or access to one.

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Cooler Master Centurion 5

Centurion5angle.jpg

I really like this one! It got a bit frustrating browsing all the full towers not finding any 100% good ones so I went to look at mid towers instead. I should still be able to cram everything I want into this one. No weird shapes in fugly colours on the front. Nice clean design and a big window. Cheap also!

I've been reading a few guides about building computers and I feel quite confident that I can do it myself. Just like choosing the components, it's much easier than I thought. The amount of cables isn't scary anymore. If I screw up, then I'll leave it to a professional. :)

I think the shopping list is complete now:

INTEL CORE 2 DUO E6600 2.4GHZ 4MB 1066MHZ S-775

ASUS P5N32-E SLI PLUS SOCKET 775 SLI ATX

CORSAIR 2GB DDR2 PC6400 800MHZ XMS2 XTREME (2X1GB) HEATZINK

[2x for RAID 1] WESTERN DIGITAL RE 320GB 7200RPM SATA/300 16MB

BFG GEFORCE 8800GTS 640MB OC HDTV DVI-I HDCP PCI-E

CREATIVE SOUND BLASTER X-FI XTREMEGAMER

COOLER MASTER CENTURION 5 MIDITOWER BLACK

ZALMAN PSU 600W-HP SILENT

ZALMAN CNPS9700 LED ULTRA QUIET CPU COOLER

AKASA 120X120MM BLUE LED 3-PIN

AKASA 80X80MM BLUE LED 3-PIN

SAMSUNG DVD±R/RW/RAM DL LS 18X S-ATA BULK BLACK

SPEEDLINK HEADSET MEDUSA 5.1 PROGAMER

[2x] SAMSUNG SYNCMASTER 940BX 19# TFT BLACK

3300 USD.

Later I'll get an external 500 GB hdd and a new wireless keyboard/mouse.

Do I need anything special to be able to set the harddrives up in a RAID 1 configuration? I think I read something about a card or is it just the way I connect the cables that matters?

I've learned a lot! It's been very fun choosing and I doubt I'll ever buy a prebuilt one again, at least not as my primary. Can't wait til I get my hands on this one. I'll most likely start acquiring parts sometime around the end of April because I need the save up a little and my schedule before that is kinda busy. I'll post the result here when it's done! :)

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I'm pretty sure I'll need one of these as well:

ADAPTEC SERIAL-ATA RAID 1210SA KIT

Correct me if I'm wrong :)

EDIT:

That card got crappy reviews. This one should be better and it supports SATA-II:

HIGHPOINT ROCKETRAID 1740 4-CHANNEL SATA/300 RAID PCI

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I almost ordered one of those on my last build but went with a thermaltake soprano instead. It was pretty nice. It fit the customer better. It was a 13 year old kid. I didn't like the plastic front door. It felt flimsy and it didn't open all the way only about 100 degrees. Other than that it was a nice case. Nice and big for a mid tower and only $79

Just to give you one more choice to look at check out this lian li.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811112040

They're supposed to be the highest quality in cases. It's a nice men in black box with a window. Lian Li is kinda big on quality, quietness, and not so much flash. Not ultra cheap but you get what you pay for.

I'll help you with a little performance tuning when you get it put together if you like.

I don't think you'll need a raid card. The MB has raid controllers built in.

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That's also a very nice case, same style. I'll consider that one as well.

Sounds good about the RAID and the motherboard, keeps the price down.

Thanks, it would be great you could help me with that when it's in 1 piece. :)

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Regarding the 8800 and power, I found this:

Real tests made by the guys at Anandtech revealed that a high end PC that uses an 8800GTX series card consumes about 320W. And I’m talking about a high priced Core 2 Duo with 2GBs of Ram here.

The conclusion is simple. 25-27A on the +12V lines for a single 8800 is more than enough. And in case you need a SLI configuration, make sure you have at least a 30-34A capable PSU.

That seems to agree with my experiences from my X1900XT machine (which maxes out at ~15A total on the 12V rail) and the relative power consumptions of the two cards. As far as PSU brands go, I swear by Seasonic, but mostly because they're quiet and you'll have a hard time getting a machine with that video card to be quiet no matter what you do...

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It's like the 940BX doesn't exist, no one lists it but newegg and they don't ship internationally. Also, impossible to find a black 940BF so I think it'll be 2x 931BF's instead. About the same specs anyway.

The 8800GTS has 2 DVI outputs, does mean I can connect both monitors to the same gfx-card or will I have to connect one of them to the motherboard?

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Ok... will the PSU I chose not work?

600W just seems like overkill (depending on what its 12V current rating is) that's all.

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Good to know, but the little extra it costs over the 460W gives me, besides more watts, also no spaghetti and a blue led so I think it may be worth it anyway.

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I myself wouldn't spend that much on a PSU, but it is high quality and when you're spending 3000+ on a system the last thing you want is the PSU to fail and take everything out. I bet you could get away buying about $100 one.

The enermax I listed with my budget AMD machine thread is $89 and 485watts with 22amp 12v rails for the video card. Plus it has the 12v 8pin eps plug your new board needs. This is the smallest and cheapest I would recommend.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817194007&Local=y

French figures have been released on power supply failure rates. Enermax and Antec were right near the top. Enermax had a 3% failure rate, Antec was like 9%. If you google it you'll find the info. I'd still trust enermax though. Probably one fluke model throwing the numbers off.

Abit also lead the MB failure rate because of one model that had a design flaw. They were actually the most reliable with some of thier other NF4 models though.

My pick if I was to build a new system tomorrow would be the corsair hx520. I overclock also and I don't want some weakest link power supply to limit me.

I also will not build a machine myself nowdays that doesn't have a modular power supply. They are so much nicer looking and nicer to work with. There's so many of them out there too now. Make no sense not to buy one.

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Remember me? :) Been too busy to do this for a while but I'm about to order everything soon. Just want to make sure nothing new has come out that I should take a look at instead or if I should go with the stuff in the list below. Linked to them on newegg also.

INTEL CORE 2 DUO E6600 2.4GHZ 4MB 1066MHZ S-775

ASUS P5N32-E SLI PLUS SOCKET 775 SLI ATX

CORSAIR 2GB DDR2 PC6400 XMS2 XTREME (2X1GB) CAS4

WESTERN DIGITAL RE 250GB SATA/300 16MB ---- (2X in RAID 1)

BFG GEFORCE 8800GTS 640MB OC2 HDTV DVI-I PCI-E

CREATIVE SOUNDBLASTER X-FI XTREME GAMER

Lian-Li PC65BUSB Aluminium Miditower Black ATX without PSU

ZALMAN PSU 600W-HP SILENT

ZALMAN CNPS9700 LED ULTRA QUIET CPU COOLER

+ blue led fans, dvd burner, headset, etc. Skipping monitor for now.

Total is slightly above 2000 USD.

Also one question, I've read several times about people whos PSU blew and damaged all the components while they were building a computer but they don't mention why that happened. When reading guides I can't see what you could possibly do wrong for that to happen. Could you enlighten me? Because that sounds like something I'd want to avoid. Could this happen if you for example connect the wrong cable somehwere?

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